| Description |
1 online resource (xiv, 456 pages) |
| Contents |
Cover; Half Title; Title; Copyright; Dedication; Contents; Introduction; Acknowledgements; Chapter 1 Getting started; Equipment needed; Some basic tailoring rules; Glossary of tailoring terminology and abbreviations; Measurements; The tailor's square, the drafting power and the working scales; Working with a costume designer and/or supervisor; Period styles and detail; Chapter 2 The block drafts and diagrams; Introduction to the blocks; Adapting the blocks to meet other styles and periods; The single-breasted (SB) waistcoat block and diagram |
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Adapting the block to a double-breasted (DB) waistcoatThe trouser block and diagram; Adapting the pattern to add pleats to the trouser front; The single-breasted (SB) jacket block and diagram; Adapting the block to a double-breasted (DB) jacket; The sleeve block and diagram for jacket, frock, morning and dress coat; Chapter 3 Inlays, allowances and cloth; Understanding inlays and making up allowances; Theatrical allowances; What cloth should I use?; Using striped or checked material; Tailoring quantities; Chapter 4 Cutting out and marking up |
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General points on cutting out, marking up and making upWaistcoat cutting out and marking up; Trouser cutting out and marking up; Jacket cutting out and marking up; Basting, tacking, tailor's chalk, mark stitching instructions and diagrams; Chapter 5 Preparing for the fitting and the fitting process; Preparing the waistcoat for the first fitting; Preparing the trousers for the first fitting; Preparing the jacket for the first fitting; The fitting process for trousers/waistcoat/jacket or coat; Fitting the trousers; Fitting the waistcoat; Fitting the jacket or coat |
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Chapter 6 Making up the waistcoatAfter the fitting; Sewing out the darts; Welt pockets; Making the waistcoat collar; The front facing and lining; Sewing out the front armhole; Finishing the hem and lower part of the side seam; Putting the backs to the fronts; Final finishing; Buttons and buttonholes; Chapter 7 Making up the trousers; After the fitting; The final making up of the trousers; The side entry and sloping pockets; The concealed button fly; Putting the front trouser pieces to the back; The waistband; Completing the trousers starting with the inside leg seams; Finishing the hems |
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Final finishing and fasteningsChapter 8 Making up the jacket; After the fitting; The outbreast pocket; The front jetted pockets and front pocket flaps; Re-attaching the canvas to the jacket fronts and making some canvas cuts; Preparing the break line; Pad stitching the lapels; Preparing the front edges for facing out; Cutting out the front facings; Cutting out the jacket linings; Adding an inbreast pocket; Sewing out the lapels and centre front edge; Securing the lining and facing to the canvas; Vents and hem canvas; Putting the backs to the fronts |
| Summary |
Men's Tailoring: Bespoke, Theatrical and Historical Tailoring 1830-1950 introduces the reader to English tailoring and covers the drafting of patterns, cutting out in cloth, and the complete traditional construction techniques in sequence for the tailoring of a waistcoat, trousers and jacket. The book contains: step-by-step instructions, complete with illustrations, for students and costumiers who are new to the making of male tailored garments from the nineteenth and twentieth centuries; drafting blocks and construction techniques for the main three styles of nineteenth century male garments: frock coat, morning coat and dress coat; patterns, photographs and detailed measurements taken from a variety of male coats, jackets, waistcoats and trousers from c1830 - c1950 from museums and collections. From choosing the right cloth to preparing for the fitting process, this how-to guide will help readers create beautiful, historically accurate three-piece suits for events and performances |
| Notes |
"A Focal Press Book"--Cover |
| Bibliography |
Includes bibliographical references and index |
| Notes |
Graham Cottenden is a costumier, tailor, and historian who graduated from the Wimbledon School of Art in 1975 and later gained a master's degree from Middlesex University. He was a freelance costume maker in London for 20 years working in theatre, film, television and museums before becoming an educator. He has taught students and professionals in the UK and around the world, including Europe, USA, Scandinavia, Brazil, Australia and Hong Kong |
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Online resource; title from digital title page (viewed on August 26, 2019) |
| Subject |
Men's clothing -- History
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Tailoring -- Pattern design.
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Costume -- Pattern design
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CRAFTS & HOBBIES -- Fashion.
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PERFORMING ARTS -- Theater -- General.
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Men's clothing
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Tailoring -- Pattern design
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| Genre/Form |
History
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| Form |
Electronic book
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| LC no. |
2018037268 |
| ISBN |
9780429442414 |
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0429442416 |
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042980900X |
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9780429809019 |
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0429809018 |
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9780429808999 |
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0429808992 |
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9780429809002 |
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