| Description |
1 online resource (480 pages) |
| Contents |
Cover; BREAKING AND DISSIPATION OF OCEAN SURFACE WAVES; Title; Copyright; Preface; 1 Introduction; 1.1 Wave breaking: the process that controls wave energy dissipation; 1.2 Concept of wave breaking; 2 Definitions for wave breaking; 2.1 Breaking onset; 2.2 Breaking in progress; 2.3 Residual breaking; 2.4 Classification of wave-breaking phases; 2.5 Breaking probability (frequency of occurrence); 2.6 Dispersion relationship; 2.7 Breaking severity; 2.8 Types of breaking waves: plunging, spilling and micro-breaking; 2.9 Criteria for breaking onset; 2.10 Radiative transfer equation |
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3 Detection and measurement of wave breaking3.1 Early observations of wave breaking, and measurements of whitecap coverage of ocean surface; 3.2 Traditional means (visual observations); 3.3 Contact measurements; 3.4 Laboratory measurements in deterministic wave fields; 3.5 Acoustic methods; 3.6 Remote sensing (radar, optical and infrared techniques); 3.7 Analytical methods of detecting breaking events in surface elevation records; 3.8 Statistical methods for quantifying breaking probability and dissipation |
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4 Fully nonlinear analytical theories for surface waves and numerical simulations of wave breaking4.1 Free surface at the wave breaking; 4.1.1 Simulating the evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking; 4.1.2 Simulation of the breaking onset; 4.1.3 Influence of wind and initial steepness; 4.2 Lagrangian nonlinear models; 5 Wave-breaking probability; 5.1 Initially monochromatic waves; 5.1.1 Evolution of nonlinear waves to breaking; 5.1.2 Measurement of the breaking onset; limiting steepness at breaking; 5.1.3 Laboratory investigation of wind influence; 5.1.4 Distance to the breaking |
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5.2 Wave-breaking threshold5.3 Spectral waves; 5.3.1 Breaking probability of dominant waves; 5.3.2 Breaking probability of small-scale waves; 5.3.3 Breaking in directional wave fields; 5.3.4 Wind-forcing effects, and breaking threshold in terms of wind speed; 6 Wave-breaking severity; 6.1 Loss of energy by an initially monochromatic steep wave; 6.2 Dependence of the breaking severity on wave field spectral properties; 7 Energy dissipation across the wave spectrum; 7.1 Theories of breaking dissipation; 7.1.1 Probability, quasi-saturated and whitecap models; 7.1.2 Kinetic-dynamic model |
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7.2 Simulating the wave dissipation in phase-resolvent models7.3 Measurements of the wave dissipation of spectral waves; 7.3.1 Laboratory measurements; 7.3.2 Difference in the spectral distribution of dissipation due to different types of breaking mechanisms; 7.3.3 Field measurements; 7.3.4 Cumulative effect; 7.3.5 Whitecapping dissipation at extreme wind forcing; 7.3.6 Directional distribution of the whitecapping dissipation; 7.4 Whitecapping dissipation functions in spectral models for wave forecasting; 7.5 Non-breaking spectral dissipation |
| Summary |
Outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking for researchers, modellers, engineers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering |
| Notes |
8 Non-dissipative effects of breaking on the wave field |
| Bibliography |
Includes bibliographical references (pages 426-460) and index |
| Notes |
English |
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Print version record |
| Subject |
Ocean waves -- Measurement
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Ocean waves -- Simulation methods
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NATURE -- Ecosystems & Habitats -- Oceans & Seas.
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SCIENCE -- Earth Sciences -- Oceanography.
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Ocean waves -- Measurement
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Ocean waves -- Simulation methods
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| Form |
Electronic book
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| ISBN |
9781139100908 |
|
1139100904 |
|
9786613341808 |
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6613341800 |
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9781139101561 |
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1139101560 |
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9780511736162 |
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0511736169 |
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1139099558 |
|
9781139099554 |
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1107226619 |
|
9781107226616 |
|
1283341808 |
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9781283341806 |
|
1139103369 |
|
9781139103367 |
|
