Title A fashionable century : textile artistry and commerce in the late Qing / Rachel Silberstein

Published Seattle : University of Washington Press, [2020]

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Description 1 online resource (xviii, 276 pages) : illustrations, maps Contents Preface: In the museum -- Terms, abbreviations, and chronology -- Introduction: Fashion and Chinese history -- PART ONE. CREATING FASHION THROUGH THE DYNASTY: IMAGERY, DISCOURSE, PRODUCTION. 1. Visualizing fashion: ethnicity, place, and transmission -- 2. “Outlandish costume and strange hats”: moral discourses of fashion -- 3. Workshop, boudoir, village: producing embroidered dress-- PART TWO. PLAYS AND POEMS: FASHIONING NINETEENTH-CENTURY DECORATION. 4. Performance, print, and pattern: popular culture in fashion -- 5. “The Luxury of words”: fashion authorities and aspirations -- Conclusion -- Acknowledgments -- Appendix1. A complete record of one hundred blessings and one thousand fortunes: a dowry list for Yu Qingceng, a Zhejiang gentlewoman in the late Qing -- Appendix 2. Clothing, textile, and accessory shop names in mid-Qing Suzhou -- Appendix 3. Commercial embroidery price list from the end of the Qing dynasty -- Appendix 4. Qing dynasty commercial clothing, accessory, and embroidery guilds -- Glossary -- Notes -- Bibliography -- Index Summary "Clothing and accessories from nineteenth-century China reveal much about women's participation-as both consumers and producers-in the commercialization of textile handicrafts and the flourishing of urban popular culture in the late Qing dynasty (1644-1911). The potential of clothing and textiles to illuminate issues of gender and identity is examined in this interdisciplinary foray into cultural history and material culture, which draws on vernacular and commercial sources to explain these objects, rather than on the official and imperial texts that have prevailed in studies of Chinese dress history. As production systems and market economies created the modern phenomenon of fashion, commercialized handicrafts transformed the early modern Chinese fashion system. Challenging the conventional production model, in which isolated Chinese women embroidered items by themselves, Rachel Silberstein positions objects of fashionable dress within mid-Qing networks of urban guilds, operated commercial workshops, and subcontracted female workers. These networks gave Chinese women opportunities to participate in fashion in new, connected, and contemporary ways. The formation of a commercialized dress and handicraft industry was thus stimulated by female-oriented domestic fashionable consumption as well as by foreign markets"-- Provided by publisher Notes "A William Sangki and Nanhee Min Hahn book" -- Title page Bibliography Includes bibliographical references and index Notes Description based on online resource; title from digital title page (viewed on October 08, 2020) Subject Textile design -- China -- History -- 19th century Textile industry -- China -- History -- 19th century Fashion -- Social aspects -- China -- History -- 19th century Women textile workers -- China -- History -- 19th century Women artisans -- China -- History -- 19th century 1800-1899. Fashion -- Social aspects Textile design Textile industry Women artisans Women textile workers Travailleuses -- Chine -- 19e siecle. Industries textiles -- Personnel -- Chine -- 19e siecle. Mode -- Aspect social -- Chine -- 19e siecle. Industries textiles -- Chine -- 19e siecle. Textiles et tissus -- Design -- Chine -- 19e siecle. China Genre/Form Electronic books History Form Electronic book LC no. 2019041153 ISBN 9780295747194 0295747196

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