| Description |
1 online resource (xxii, 330 pages) : illustrations (some color), maps |
| Contents |
Timeline -- Introduction / Maude Bass-Krueger and Sophie Kurkdjian -- Part one. The reconfiguration of the international couture industry -- 1. Wartime marketing of Parisian haute couture in the United States, 1914-1917 / Mary Lynn Stewart -- 2. Boué Sœurs : "Compelled by the war" / Waleria Dorogova -- 3. "Gladdening the hearts of warriors" : The relationship between Lucile's romantic fashions and morale in the First World War / Georgina Ripley -- 4. Die Kriegskrinoline : A feminine fashion between past and future / Birgit Haase -- 5. Fashion in Belgium during the First World War and the case of Norine Couture / Nele Bernheim -- Part two. The materiality of wartime fashion and textile industries -- 6. Dressed to quill : The origin and significance of the feathered showgirl in First World War Paris / Emily Brayshaw -- 7. Between fashion and folk : Dress practices in Alsace during the First World War / Sara Hume -- 8. The lace industry in France and Belgium during the First World War / Marguerite Coppens -- 9. Industrial and homemade clothing production in the Netherlands : A neutral country during the First World War / Marta Kargól -- 10. Wartime fabrics in the historical archives of Como weavers and in the collections of the Fondazione Antonio Ratti / Margherita Rosina -- Part three. Problematic uniforms : Male and female experiences and secondhand trade networks -- 11. "Breeched, booted, and cropped" : A dress historical analysis of the uniform worn by members of Britain's Women's Land Army, 1917-1919 / Amy de la Haye -- 12. The French home front in 1914-1918 : An investigation into female workwear / Jérémie Brucker -- 13. Rushing to suit up : French aviation's adjustment to wartime uniforms, 1914-1916 / Guillaume de Syon -- 14. The spoils of war : Use and transformations of secondhand uniforms during the First World War in France / Manuel Charpy -- Part four. Fashion in print : Questions of national fashion and gender -- 15. The gentleman turned "enemy" : Men's fashion in the Hungarian press, 1914-1918 / Zsolt Mészáros -- 16. The politics of fashion: German fashion writings in times of war / Burcu Dogramaci -- 17. The Italian fashion magazine Margherita : The war, women, and the call for a "Moda Italiana", 1914-1918 / Enrica Morini -- 18. Le Flambeau's fashion discourse during the First World War : Towards a retrograde femininity? / Nigel Lezama -- 19. Is beauty useless? Fashion, gender, and British wartime society in Punch magazine, 1915 / Andrea Kollnitz |
| Summary |
"This book is the first of its kind to study the impact that the Great War had on fashion, the fashion industry and civilians in a transnational context"-- Provided by publisher |
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"The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years, yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies has not yet been addressed. This collection fills this gap in the literature by examining the impact the Great War had on fashion, its industry, and civilians in a transnational context. With contributions from leading experts, Fashion, Society and the First World War explores wartime style and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through clothing and print culture"--OAPEN, viewed June 21, 2021 |
| Bibliography |
Includes bibliographical references and index |
| Notes |
Print version and online resource, viewed June 21, 2021 |
| Subject |
Fashion -- History -- 20th century
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Women's clothing -- History -- 20th century
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World War, 1914-1918 -- Social aspects
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Clothing trade -- History -- 20th century
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Technology & Engineering -- Agriculture.
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Clothing trade
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Fashion
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Social aspects
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Women's clothing
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| Genre/Form |
History
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| Form |
Electronic book
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| Author |
Bass-Krueger, Maude, 1985- editor.
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Edwards-Dujardin, Hayley, editor.
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Kurkdjian, Sophie, editor.
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| LC no. |
2020048489 |
| ISBN |
9781350119888 |
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1350119881 |
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9781350119871 |
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1350119873 |
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