Beirut : a city in transition -- Downtown in "the ancient city of the future" -- 'Ayn el-mreisse : the global market and the apartment unit -- "Beirut is ours, not theirs" : neighborhood sites and struggles in 'Ayn el-mreisse -- Cafés, funerals, and the future of coffee spaces -- Placing the war-displaced -- Afterword : reclaiming downtown again